History of Banaras
India’s handloom sector is a vibrant tapestry of rich cultural heritage, interwoven with the threads of economic development and rural empowerment. At its heart lies a story of art, craft, and generational legacy, cherished by the skilled weavers of rural India. These artisans form the backbone of the rural economy, preserving techniques and designs passed down through centuries, ensuring that every piece tells a unique tale.
This ancient craft has captivated not only the domestic market but also charmed customers across the globe. The appreciation from international markets has further amplified its value within India, fostering a renewed admiration for handloom products. Among the many jewels of India’s handloom legacy is the holy city of Banaras (Varanasi), located just 200 kms from the state capital, Lucknow. Known for its socio-economic and religious significance, Banaras boasts a historic tradition of crafting exquisite silk sarees and intricate brocades. Each creation is a testament to the city’s rich and glorious heritage, blending artistry with devotion. Renowned clusters like Madanpura and Alipur specialize in silk sarees and brocades, including iconic varieties such as Jangla, Tanchoi, and Tissue. These products are crafted using high-quality silk yarns sourced domestically from Karnataka and West Bengal, or imported from Japan and China.
The Art of Crafting Banaras Sarees
Banaras silk weaving involves meticulous thread preparation, managed by skilled artisans known as "Bataias." Threads undergo several steps for uniformity and readiness:
Natawa: Threads are mounted on a bamboo frame, wound into hanks or skeins, and transferred for doubling.
Pareta: Threads are processed on a cone-shaped bamboo frame for further operations.
Khali: This intermediate tool aids in transferring threads while twisting or reeling.
Tagh: Threads are twisted into warp threads using a charkha and stretched over rods.
Warp Threads: Twisted threads are moved to the spindle, ensuring smoothness.
Chemical Treatments: Threads are bleached, dyed, and processed to remove natural sericin.
This careful preparation ensures high-quality silk weaving in Banaras.
The creation of Banaras sarees begins with the delicate process of degumming silk to remove sericin, ensuring softness and color absorption. Traditional methods used soap-nut or soda, but modern techniques simplify this step. After bleaching, the warp threads, dyed in vibrant hues, are prepared using a taana machine, which organizes them on a wooden frame.
An essential ingredient is kalabattun—gold or silver threads crafted locally or imported—used for intricate patterns. The design phase follows, where the nakshabandhcreates detailed patterns on paper, combining creativity and technical expertise. These designs are transferred onto punched cards and integrated into the loom for weaving, bringing the exquisite fabric to life.
The Craftsmanship Behind Banarasi Silk
Deep within the weaving sheds of Banaras lies a world of intricate artistry. Here, skilled artisans, called karigars, work tirelessly to create the iconic Banarasi silk fabrics and brocades. The weaving process, aided by a traditional jacquard machine, involves the precise interplay of punch cards and threads to form complex designs. The weavers sit in a hollow pit beneath the loom, guiding warp threads stretched to various lengths through a maze of bamboo poles, ropes, and levers. This delicate weaving process results in the luxurious silk adorned with gold and silver threads—a true testament to the city’s heritage and craftsmanship.
In the weaving sheds of Banaras, the process begins with a network of warp and weft threads, meticulously guided by skilled weavers. For more elaborate patterns, a model of the design, known as naksha, hangs above the loom, connected to warp threads. Often, a young boy assists, using an instrument called mandhato help lift specific threads, ensuring the precise placement of gold and silver threads into the fabric. The weaver then uses a shuttle, crafted from buffalo horn, to deftly guide the weft through the warp, forming the breathtaking patterns Banaras is celebrated for.
As the Banarasi fabric takes shape, weavers use simple tools to make everything perfect. For intricate patterns, extra layers of silk threads, called pais, are added to make the designs more detailed. Shiny gold and silver threads, known as kalabattun, are carefully handled using a bamboo tool called kandhito protect their delicate coating.
Finally, the fabric is checked, and any loose threads or adjustments are made. After this final touch, the beautiful Banarasi fabric is ready. In the past, skilled artisans, called Kundigar, would carefully press the material by hand. Today, this is done by combining these techniques with modern pressing techniques.
What makes Banaras Brocades unique is their intricate artistry and luxurious style. Unlike brocades from other regions, they feature heavy gold designs, compact weaves, detailed patterns, and a striking metallic sheen that makes them truly special. The Pallavs of these sarees are particularly captivating, adorned with decorative motifs and bordered by artistic designs such as Jhalaror scalloped edges. Techniques like the delicate Madanpura weavingor the bold Old Alaipura weaving bring in a variety of textures, ensuring every saree has its own character.
The Art of Butis
The highlight of Banaras Brocades lies in their Butis–the small, stylized motifs handwoven into the fabric. Known as Kimkhab, these intricate gold and silver patterns are synonymous with luxury. Crafted with layers of warp threads –ranging from three layers in Tiparato seven in Satpara–the artistry behind each Kimkhab piece is a marvel.
Amrus and Abrwans
Banaras fabrics are masterpieces of intricate weaving. Amrus, a lighter variation of Kimkhab, uses up to five layers but skips the gold and silver threads, making it more affordable yet equally elegant. Abrwans are crafted with silk gauze and delicate designs. At the heart of this craftsmanship lies the Naksha principle, a technique as detailed as the designs it produces. Similar to a Jacquard mechanism, it carefully lifts threads in groups to create patterns.
The Craft of Naksha: Weaving Perfection
Creating a Naksha is a delicate art, where threads are fixed to a bamboo stick and arranged evenly using a process called Shiwen. Groups of Kheva threads are tied, and a traced design is divided into sections to guide the weaving. The weaver skillfully lifts and lowers threads to replicate intricate patterns, introducing textures like twills and satins.
Brocade weaving is a testament to India’s rich heritage, where art begins with the naksha—a design blueprint that guides looms to create uniform, intricate patterns. With tools like polished bamboo kandhis, artisans interlace delicate metallic threads and vibrant silks, producing dazzling designs like minakari. Techniques such as fekwa add depth and elegance, while kardhwa brings bold contrasts.
The Art of Banaras Motifs
Banaras weavers masterfully incorporate motifs with precise spacing and harmony. Geometric patterns like khanjari(chevron), charkhana(checks), and ari doria(lines) are commonly used, along with mothraborders for design divisions. Floral motifs, called butisor butas, reflect nature with forms like asharfi(coin), and various flowers such as jasmine (chameli), marigold (genda), and rose (gulab). Elaborate patterns like genda bel and gulab bel feature floral designs. Popular designs include doriya stripes, phulwar floral patterns and kalghi turanj inspired by nature’s elegance. Each motif reflects the artistic depth of Banaras weaving.
The Unique Craft of Banaras Weaving
Banaras brocades, known for their rich Mughal-inspired motifs and fine silk, include luxurious Alfi designs with intricate gold and silver meenakari. Unlike Kancheepuram’s temple-inspired patterns or Chanderi’s lightweight fabrics, Banaras brocades are heavier and vibrant.
Counterfeit Products
Counterfeit products, imitations at a fraction of the original price, are common. Measures such as Geographical Registry (GI), Silk Mark and Handloom Mark are some of the initiatives taken by the Govt. of India to educate consumers about authentic weaves.
